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Jewelry Knowledge

Ring Sizes
The 4 C's of Diamonds
Gemstones
Birthstones


Jewelry Knowledge

GEMSTONES
The use of the word “rare“ when describing a gemstone indicates that it is limited in supply and difficult to obtain. In addition to rarity, the beauty and value of a gemstone is determined by color, clarity and other unique characteristics such as carat weight. Exhibiting a certain degree of hardness and/or toughness makes the gemstone durable and wearable. Most of all, every gemstone tells a story of romance and historical significance.

AMETHYST
Amethyst is the February birthstone and the most valuable member of the quartz family. Its reputed power to cure or prevent drunkenness derives from an ancient Greek myth. One of the first gemstones used by man, amethyst was thought to safeguard soldiers, ensure victory, aid hunters, … Amethyst ranges in color from violet to red-purple. Its principal sources are Brazil, Uruguay, and the Commonwealth of Independent States.

Heating is the most common treatment which can alter the color of a stone to lighten, darken, or change completely. Very dark Amethyst is heated to produce lighter shades. Most of the Amethyst available in the gem market is enhanced to get exotic shades. It is a permanent and common Amethyst treatment and lasts forever.

Caring for your Amethyst jewelry involves periodic cleaning of your jewelry pieces. Film from lotions, powders, and skin oils dulls Amethyst and reduces its brilliance. The lost luster and its brilliance can be restored by cleaning your Amethyst jewelry in a gentle dishwashing liquid and a soft brush. A rinse in warm water and drying with a soft cloth will return your jewelry and Amethyst to its former pristine condition.

AQUAMARINE
Aquamarine is the greenish blue to blue-green variety of the mineral beryl. Its name comes from the Latin for “sea-water”. Aquamarine’s color made it a symbol of happiness and everlasting youth. Today, Aquamarine is the March birthstone. Most Aquamarine now is carefully heated to reduce greenishness and enhance the blue. This enhancement is stable and does not affect durability.

Caring for your Aquamarine involves protecting it from blistering sunlight. It should be cleaned with warm soapy water and a soft bristle toothbrush.

CITRINE
Citrine is one of the most affordable gemstones, thanks to the durability and availability of this golden quartz. It is also the alternative birthstone to topaz for November. Named from the French name for lemon, "citron", citrine includes yellow to gold to orange brown shades of transparent quartz. Although the darker, orange colors of citrine, sometimes called Madeira citrine after the color of the wine, has generally been the most valued color, in modern times, many people prefer the bright lemony shades which mix better with pastel colors. Most citrine is mined in Brazil. Since most citrine on the market started its life as an amethyst, which was heated to turn its color to gold, citrine jewelry, as well as amethyst jewelry, should be kept away from prolonged exposure to strong light or heat. With this precaution, citrine jewelry will last for many generations.

CULTURED PEARLS
Gift of Nature, the pearl has been throughout history, one of the most highly prized and sought after gems. The ancient Egyptians prized pearls so much that they were buried with them. Cleopatra dissolved a single pearl in a glass of wine and drank it. Until the early 1900’s, natural pearls were only accessible to only the rich and famous. Today, with the advent of pearl cultivation, pearls are affordable and available to all. Cultured pearls share the same properties as natural pearls and are grown by live oysters. The only difference is a little bit of encouragement by man. There are many varieties of pearls, which are grown in different parts of the world. Akoya pearls, classic cultured pearls of Japan, are grown in Japan and China; freshwater pearls, very popular pearls due to their lower price, unique shapes and colors, are grown in Japan, China and the United States, … Cultured pearls are relatively soft compared to other gemstones and precious metals, so it is important to take special care of them. Cosmetics, perfume and hairspray contain chemicals that can dull the luster of pearls, therefore it is best to put your pearls on after you apply them. Wiping your pearls after you wear them, storing them separately from hard jewelry will keep them beautiful for ever. Pearl is the June birthstone month and is also the perfect gift for “sweet sixteen”, graduation, weddings, …

EMERALDS
Treasured for at least 3000 years by different cultures around the world, Emeralds are said to quicken the intelligence as well as the heart. More often than not, Emeralds of the finest quality have come from Colombia. When choosing an Emerald, the most important factor to consider is color. The more vivid the green, the more valuable the emerald. Emeralds that are highly transparent with few visible inclusions are considered the most prized. Considered part of the character of the stone, these inclusions are called “jardin” (garden) as they typically resemble leaves and branches.

Today, many emeralds are enhanced with colorless oils or resins. This is a general trade practice, but it does have the consequence that these green gems cannot be cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. For this reason, emerald rings should always be taken off before the wearer puts his or her hands in water containing cleansing agents. Also, do not allow other rough gemstones to affect its sheen by coming in close contact to its surface. Use velvet or a soft fabric lined jewelry box to keep it safe.

GARNET
Garnets are birthstones for the month of January and the astrological sign for Aquarius. To primitive cultures, the colors of red gems suggested blood thus they were thought to stop bleeding and cure inflammations. Because of their attractive colors and reasonable prices, they are among the most popular colored stones. Important sources of garnet can be found in Brazil, India, Kenya, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Australia, US, … There is a variety of names for garnet. Most of these names are for particular colors proper to type of garnets like Hessonite, Melanite, Almandite, … and they display the greatest range of color of any mineral, occurring in every color except blue.

GOLD
From the treasures of ancient Egypt to the stunning contemporary jewelry of today, Gold has adorned and flattered the world’s most notable and stylish individuals. Its unique radiance and beauty makes Gold the king of precious metals. Pure Gold, the most malleable of all metals, is incredibly workable. Karat is the term used to specify how many parts of pure gold are contained in 24 parts of the alloy. Usually silver, copper, zinc and palladium are the metals used for alloying. Alloying increases hardness and provides a variety of different colors.

IOLITE
The name of this gemstone comes from the Greek word “ios”, which means violet. Iolite can be transparent to translucent, and its color ranges from light to dark blue to violet. Though it is somewhat fragile , it is durable enough to be used in jewelry. Iolite’s sources include Brazil, the Union of Myanmar, Finland, India, … Iolite is relatively hard but should be protected from blows.

Mystic Topaz
Mystic Topaz is an enhanced gemstone that is not found naturally. To create Mystic Topaz, natural, colorless topaz is coated with a thin layer of titanium or similar metal. The coating is only microns thick and is applied to the stone's pavilion, the underside angled portion that typically forms the bulk of the gem. As the deposition coating is on the pavilion, therefore, the table and crown of the stones is natural topaz and thus resistant to scratching, which will last as long as any natural gemstone.

The application process is protected by strict patents that limit the amount of mystic topaz available in the general market.

The treatment is fast and durable. Mystic Topaz has been sold successfully the last 10 years and has proven to withstand normal wear and tear. However, the enhanced stones should not be exposed to any abrasives, acids, or immersed in an ultrasonic cleaner and high heat should be avoided.

ONYX
In jewelry design as in fashion, colors look crisper against a background of black and black and white always looks right. In fine jewelry, the black backdrop is often supplied by onyx, a chalcedony quartz with a fine texture and black color. Onyx which is reddish brown and white is known as sardonyx. Sardonyx was highly valued in Rome, especially for seals, because it was said to never stick to the wax. Roman General Publius Cornelius Scipio was known for wearing lots of sardonyx. Black onyx especially shines when used as a backdrop for color play. Its fine texture also makes it ideal for carving, making it a favored material for today's lapidary artists. Onyx may chip or scratch rather easily, so store your onyx carefully.

OPAL
Opal’s beauty has conquered superstition to make it one of the top-selling gems of all time. Considered by many as the most beautiful and desirable gems, opal alternates with tourmaline as the birthstone of October. Ancient cultures regarded opal as sacred, embodying the spirit of truth. Early Arabs believed opals fell from heaven in flashes of lightning that gave them fiery luster. And Shakespeare praised opal as “the queen of gems”. Although opals are found in many regions, Australia is still the most important source; others include Mexico, Brazil and the United States.

Opal is rarely enhanced by methods other than cutting and polishing. It is softer than many other gems and should be stored carefully to avoid being scratched by other jewelry. It should also be protected from blows, as exposed corners can chip. Opal should not be exposed to heat or acid.

PERIDOT
The Egyptians used Peridot as a gem as early as 1500 BC. They considered it the “Gem of the sun”. People ascribed various powers to Peridot. Strung on donkey hair and tied around your left arm would ward off evil spirits, held under your tongue, the stone was thought to lessen thirst in fever. Today major sources of this gem are Australia, Brazil, the Union of Myanmar, Sri Lanka and the US. It shares the August birthstone honors with sardonyx. Peridot is a jewelry stone which is excellently suited to daily wear, without requiring special care.

RUBIES
Hardly any other gem can inspire such emotional vibrations as the Ruby. Among most peoples, it symbolizes the highest of earthly possessions – love. Ruby is the red variety of the mineral corundum. It’s hardness and toughness makes Ruby a very durable gemstone. The most important factor in the value of a Ruby is color. The brighter and livelier the red sparkles, the more precious the Ruby. After color, the other factor that greatly influences a Ruby’s value is carat weight. Large size rubies are rare.

After being extracted from the earth, rubies today are commonly heated to maximize the purity and intensity of their red hue. Impurities may also dissolve or become less noticeable after heating. However, heating will only improve the color if the gem already contains the chemistry required. This enhancement is permanent and rubies, whether enhanced or not, remain among the most durable of gems.

SAPPHIRES
Sapphires and Rubies are closely related – they belong to the mineral species corundum. The finest sapphires are considered to be the blue variety, while those in other colors are known as “fancy sapphires”. Readily available in a wide variety of sizes and shapes, a Sapphire’s hardness makes it an excellent choice for jewelry worn daily. As with all gemstones, Sapphires that have few visible inclusions or tiny flaws are most valuable.

Perfect sapphires are very rare thus, over the centuries, methods to enhance the purest hues of sapphire have been developed. This is now commonly achieved by controlled heating of these gems, a technique that not only improves color but also improves clarity. Heating sapphires is a permanent enhancement, as lasting as the gemstones themselves.

TANZANITES
Tanzanite is relatively new to the colored stone world. It was introduced with great enthusiasm in 1968. The popularity and public recognition of Tanzanite have grown steadily. The exquisite combination of purple and blue hues will actually be seen simultaneously. One of its most superb characteristics is to delight the eye with its limpid clarity and exquisite brilliance. Tanzania remains this gem’s only source, and because of limited supply, Tanzanite is a unique statement of style and beauty.

Tanzanite achieves only hardness 6.5 to 7 on the Moh's scale, and is thus not very resistant. Therefore, it should be worn with care, never be cleaned by ultrasonic method, and never come into contact with acids.

TOPAZ
The name Topaz comes from Topazios, the name of an island in the Red Sea. However, the stones found there were most probably peridot, which was also called topaz until the late sixteenth century. To the Egyptians, the color of yellow topaz symbolized Ra, the god of the sun; the Greeks believed it conferred strength. It was also said to make the wearer invisible, assure beauty, intelligence, fidelity and a long life. Today topaz (along with Citrine) serves as the November birthstone. Much of the finest quality material comes from Brazil. Topaz occurs naturally in many colors, the most valuable being pink to red, and fine reddish orange.

Heating and irradiation can be used to change some colors into more desirable ones. These enhancements are stable. Take a little extra care when handling your topaz as when dropped, they may break.

TOURMALINE
Tourmaline has probably one of the widest color ranges in the mineral world. Besides green, familiar varieties come in pale pink to dark red, bi-color (often pink and green) and also in black, called Schorl. The name tourmaline came from the people of ancient Ceylan, in Sinhalese the word “turmali” meant mixed gems. This popular gemstone shares the October birthstone month with opal and is the 8th wedding anniversary. Today, Zambia and the US are major sources of tourmaline. California became famous near the turn of the century for its magnificent, abundant material.

Tourmalines are often heated or irradiated to produce lighter shades from dark stones or change their colors. These stones should not be exposed to strong exposure to light and rough handling.

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